Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Comfortably Pinot

When I find Pinot Noir I really like its total comfort. It’s a gourmet Mac and Cheese (gruyere and white cheddar if you please) with panko crumbs and pancetta. Full, tasty, layered, but also its my fleece lined Romeo slippers. I’ve been really fortunate over the last month to have some amazing wine of many varietals… Still I wanted to share some good Pinot Noir and what I think are at great value.

2001 Medici East Block Pinot Noir – I blogged about this before and its still one of my happy points. (prior post - Pin-oooh Noir) Lately the ’01 Medici is going through a smellier phase with earthy funk more notable than even when I first had it. So if you need I would just let it open for a good 30 min or so to blow off a bit if at first it doesn’t appeal to you. That said many don’t and are very happy… What I really like about the Medici East Block is that its primary characteristics are forest and soil with the secondary being fruit. That is contrary to what is commonly being produced by some. I don’t think I can improve on my prior notes but I will say that the nose has even more black truffle and dark earth followed by a bit of bittersweet dark chocolate coffee and cola, then to long needle pine and finally red fruit and dust. The flavors mirror the nose and have distinctive layers as they traverse the palate. It’s a far reaching and lightly grippy pinot that I have taken to more than one occasion to shock and then awe the imbibers. This pinot has an officer’s crease and snap so stand at attention while you drink soldier and G.I up in a comfortable pair of old leathery combat boots.
Flavor Profile: 3.5 /5
Value: 4 /5 ($26-30 in most stores)

2002 Medici East Block Pinot Noir – I was lucky enough to try the two Medici side by side. And while they have similarities they are not even close to the same wine. The ’02 is much a more even handed feminine temptress. The color is amazingly similar as the sister to the above brother reflects the same heritage. As well the smell is of forest fir first and then fruit. Yet the '02 has evergreen pine and noble fir to her with a bit of cola and bright red cherry in the scents. On the palate it is more seductive and smooth bodied, not as muscular or angular. Light valley pine oil is followed by fire engine red ripe cherries that finish with a pair of dusty hiking boots. She’ll likely be more popular than her brother; hello all American girl.
Flavor Profile 3.5/5
Value: 4/5 ($27-30 harder to find as the release is not actually slated till after the’01 is gone)

Clay Hill 2006 Pinot Noir [De Ponte Vineyards] (aka cherry vanilla coke) – You want the Mac and Cheese of Pinot? You want a great value that has the characteristics of Oregon fruit but without having to read or write waxing poetic? You want to not have to describe the characteristics of forest, various red fruits, spices, and earth? And you just want to drink it with your homemade Mac and Cheese with panko and bacon; or with a burger or turkey burger. You got it... Clay Hill ’06 Pinot is maraschino cherry red with cherry vanilla cola in the nose. Drink it and its all cherries and the juice in the jar with maybe a bit of vanilla coke. Lightly grippy and cherry simply. Wash down your food with that and don’t give a moments thought, cause ya don’t have too. Possibly the soda pop of pinot.
Flavor Profile: 3/5
Value: 3/5 ($24/bottle – I would like to see this more in the 20 or under category, what’s $4? That’s $4 more towards Mac and Cheese my friends)

Thursday, December 18, 2008

The class of the glass

These white wines are classic, vibrant, seductive, and run the gamut of tastes one could wish. I have my own issues with white wine; I am pickier with it than red. If white doesn’t turn my head or make me pause I am likely to simply pass it by. I will buy inexpensive reds more frequently. Yet, overall a really good white wine will get my attention and hold my passions more than a red. Really interesting white wine is that good to me. These are three that are dissimilar to each other but each caught me with something that held me fast.

Domaine du Clape 2007 – A rare 100% Marsanne southern French wine that smelled of the honey and polish of beeswax, Asian pear, and neroli perfume. Tastes craved by the buzz of bees or flittering of hummingbird’s wing with white cala lillies, day lillies, fresh cut flower stalk, and a fat oval mouth-feel only to be felt with avocado but without its flavor. Its an unusual and what would be often considered contrary mix of both the feel of perfume and fat in the same glass. It nearly left me weak staring at the yellowish perfume color. It’s dry as if drinking Chanel #5 and with a finish as subtle and yet completely mind-altering as a whisper. $$

Bodegas Niades 2005 – The Matador’s jacket and glint off his spear are the character of this old vines Verdejo. It gleams and glints in the light almost distracting from the power and grace. A Hemmingway recount of dusty battle of Toreador in Spain. It is somehow determined to be as it is. Full bodied and full of life with pear, lemon grass, and a long white crushed mineral finish. It glows golden as the gleam off Mediterranean sea, as two people in a yellow cab lives pressed together whether they wish it or not, as with a destiny of flavors as the sun also rises… $$

Botani Moscatel Seco 2007 – Going to the country gonna eat me a lot of peaches, going to the country gonna eat me a lot of peaches. Get the jist of this Spanish Muscat? Don’t mistake it as sweet either but think fresh raw peach meat with some cardamom sprinkled on it. Barely a yellow hue with a nose of white peach and cardamom and what reminded me of the woody spicy nature of cinnamon bark. I think this would be great with seafood or even some mild spicy food, but I can’t wait to have it with brunch. Don’t tell James, he’ll try to live inside the bottle. Going to the country gonna eat me a lot of peaches... $

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Cheers to wine

I never met David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards. After having tried his wines and meeting the people he influenced; some who I consider my friends, I wish I had. I stopped by the memorial for him over the weekend to pay my respects... Seeing the rooms full of those who knew him, as well as those who, like me, simply wanted to show some sort of respect and support; it had me thinking how interesting and wonderful one little bit of fermented fruit can be.

Wine is odd social connector. Through only one year of going to tastings I have made friends I spend time with - and geek out about wine with, enjoy meals with, poke fun about sports, discuss and debate politics, remember esoteric forgotten pieces of social culture with, and more. In that year I have met so many good people and simply because of our mutual enjoyment of wine. I continue to meet new people who, as wine, I endeavor to get to know better. From vintners, to garagistas, to persons like myself who just enjoy wine and have less knowledge and experience. To David Lett and all those so impassioned by the juice of the grape; who through their excited chemistry and creations have initiated a social network and maintained its person to person interaction even through a time of blogs, facebook, and texting... Cheers and my thanks.

A wine worth mentioning with this post I recently had, from a varietal I had never had prior on its own...
Eyrie 2006 Pinot Munier - Pinot Munier is a grape lesser known genetic variation of Pinot Noir often used in blends... If all Pinot Munier is like this then please let it be bottled on its own! This was a sleak and exciting wine. The nose at first was full of ripe pomegranate, with a subtle cranberry tartness. There too was a very slight darkened earthy funk that seemed unwilling to hold still, appearing both infront of and behind the fruit. Slip onto the palate and its as if you have cracked a pomegranate in your hands, the juice of the seeds and vapors of the pith coating the skin and tastebuds. Have you seen the old Ocean Spray wave commercials? This is a pomegranate-cran-acai berry blend that crests and swells brightly over the tongue. The bright acid was sea spray foam that lifting and clearing away. Still, searching in the flavors, the slightest almost imperceptable burnt smokey earth taste and feel was present. As if charring a field of its last minute stalks to a newly fertile and rich soil. How about this with a cranberry chutney on chicken or even cedar planked red wine infused fish. Its sultry enough to grab your attention and have with such food or if she prefers slip you a mickey all on her own. $$

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

And the sky was all violet

(Kudos if you know what song the title of ths post is from)

Have you had enough leftovers lately to feel like Violet from Willie Wonka & the Chocolate Factory? You know the girl that bloated up into a giant blueberry and was rolled away by Oompa Loompa? Well oompa loompa doompity dooo, I've got a steal of a wine for you.

Pull that last turkey out of the freezer or use this for after the next holidays if you have Turkey again... Bordeaux and turkey sandwich I was told is the pairing for leftovers after the holiday; when another friend recommended a steal of a Bordeaux an idea hatched. I am back and forth with Bordeaux that I have had by the way; normally think it a big complex wine perhaps beyond my palate but this was a pairing I plan to recreate many many times.

First the wine...
Poitevin Cru Bourgeios 2005 - Welcome to your first spoonful of very tart wild boisenberry/blueberry triffle. The smell of this wine was plump of juicy berries, it had me repeating boisenberry boisenbery boisenberry - like a mantra but also with undercurrents of blueberry, and green wood. The color was decidely layered in those berries as well; dark ruby red mixed with the most intense dark violet purple edge. Its a Bipolar combination of color that may have you thinking ROY G BIV needs some psychotherapy. Drinking this was almost too easy and more like inhaling, you don't think it, it just happens. Silk smooth texture, with an oval mouth-feel of a mix of dark berries was easily drank. A reflex of air this was reflex of grapes. Its almost too easy to quaff down from its soft rounded body. However, it does reward the smaller portion too with definitive dry almost underipe layered tart fruit flavors that slide to a mild dank dark brown earthen finish. Dark as night, dark as pitch, in a violet sky stars shone like little fish... $

I promised as well the recipe for leftover turkey sandwich I had this with. Try this and see if it doesnt match so well... Shred a mixture of dark and white meat by hand or fork. Use enough to make a sandwich similar to a pulled pork. More if making for a group. Heat the shredded turkey in an uncovered non stick skillet or sauce pan on med to med-hi heat. No oil should be needed as the meat has it. Turn and fold the meat occasionally to heat through; about 5 minutes or so. Reduce heat to med and add just enough Stubb's Chicken Marinade to dress the turkey. This means no excess liquid in your pan, it should soak up and coat the turkey. Once turned and folded to combination with no excess fluid add a bit more of the Marinade so there is a very shallow layer of fluid. Allow to reduce and combine with the turkey stirring occasionally. While reducing cut thin slices of tillamook extra sharp white cheddar. Again the goal here is to dress or coat not create a cheesy goo. Add a few slices at a time to the pan strring frequently as it melts to coat the turkey pieces. For 3 sandwhiches I used a 9" pan with about 7 oz sliced cheese. Once fully combined and coated serve hot on a wheat bun. For a twist fry some julienne shallots in a pan and add on top of the turkey before closing your sandwhich. Similar to a marinated pulled pork this is a flavorful marinated pulled turkey sammie that made mouths water and really accentuated the wine showing boisenberry and wild tart blueberry bold in the glass. I can hardly wait to make it again. En Boca Lupo!

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Is Oregon Pinot Worth its salt?

Well, I have been lax on posting of late but I did want to be sure to post about this topic. Throughout the fall the harvest of grapes goes on, and by now all are off the vine. Several times this fall already I have been asked by friends is there an inexpensive Oregon Pinot Noir that is really good? In other words is Oregon Pinot worth its salt...

One of the great things and also maddening things in my opinion about wine is that its worth what people will pay for it. Do I think that you could find a good Oregon Pinot for $10 - personally, No! Do I think there are some nice Pinot Noirs from the area for $20 or less - absolutely!

Grochau Cellars (GC) Toute De Suite 2007 Pinot Noir - its Supercalafragalistic expidaladocius! The name of this wine may sound almost as strange to some when you say it but it reminds me of that old song and dance routine. Its happy, fun, bawdy, and a bowl full of bright fruity red cherries. Its a big red cherry soda that tickles the taste buds and dances a bit madly. Tastes of bright red pie cherries, dark floral tones, and baking spices swirl about the mouth. It evokes the color maraschino cherry red in my mind just thinking of the tastes, even though the color of the wine is more dark rose red. While not long I dare you to call this a quaffer. Its too vivacious for that. Tout de suite in French means immediately and after you have a glass or bottle I am guessing you'll understand and want to have more tout de suite! $

J. Christopher Zoot Allures Pinot Noir 2006 - Well wait I already posted on the Zoot Allures before; but no, this is a secondary release with different grapes. As much as I liked the original I like this even better! This second run had a bit more layers to it, with a dry high forest earthy smell reminding me of hiking through the ponderosa pine around central Oregon. As well, smells of bing cherries still on the tree of some Mt. Hood orchard with dark wild blossoms scents. So how's the taste? While moderately short bodied it still had a wonderful slippery, silky, and lightly acidic mouth-feel. Red cherry and berry combined with a more earthy finish. One taster commented white pepper although I more found fruit, oregon farming earth, and garden herbs. Again this is a real steal at the cost and with what I thought was a more combined and interesting palate than the prior more than worthwhile release. $

With these two, and others I have prior posted, you may find some inexpensive (at least in my mind) Oregon Pinot Noir. But does that $50-70/bottle Pinot really have that much of a difference? Well again that's pretty personal on tastes and what producers can sell their wine for. So I also wanted to include two from my favorite Oregon Pinot Noir producer Eyrie Vineyards that I believe are worth more than their cost albeit that each are not inexpensive.

Eyrie 1999 Reserve Pinot Noir - I felt as if on plush velvet pillows as I sipped ths wine, a middle-eastern experience for an Oregon Pinot. As I stuck my nose to the glass I was instantly met with the smell of pancetta fat, geranium, and cherries. I could imagine the spattering of pancetta in a sizzling hot pan with bits carmalizing and popping out all over a wood stoked fire. As with most Eyrie, this is lighter than the average Pinot; a light and rudy garnet red with a rusty hue. This is the color I most enjoy and why I admit to bias to the Eyrie Pinots. But that is not the only reason... That wonderful smell kept changing and different persons found thyme, clay dust, cranberry, raspberry and other scents. So layered is that nose! I would need much more discerning senses to smell all the aormatic molecules. When tasting I found there was a slightly more strengthened body and acid compared to some Eyrie I have had. Long acid feel ran back over my tongue with a traditional cherry and earth flavor, but with tangy red fruit that persisted throughout finishing with a slightly smoky spice. Perhaps my nose, transmitted taste to my tongue too but I swore I could feel and taste fat pancetta bacon. More than one taster expressed wanting this wine with Oyster stuffing at the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday meal. As I sipped and smelled I felt lazy or dreamy as lotus eatiers, or in a harem with houka and sweet sticky scents of zesty fruited smoke and spice. With the '99 Eyrie be your own Sultan, sip, and dream. $$

Eyrie 2003 Reserve Pinot Noir - Even though 2003 was not the it year for pinot noir; deftly touched, this is a wonderful wine. It was colored as garnets in sunlight with light cherry red/pink hue, and with what some would swear are orangish sparkles in the glass. Very ripe cherries are effervescent in the nose but with a lythe and light floral smell that quickly gave way - hibiscus was it? Delicate, demure, and gone too quickly. Further scents of drying hay and old barn plus what some described as a light warm Oregon costal breeze. I found a wonderfuly earthy scent remeniscent of filbert orchards and the dirt clods found within. Imagine the perfect filbert farm perched on the Oregon Coastal cliffs selling cherries and roasted filbers at the gate... The taste was layered, complex, and evoked discussion. While cherry and cranberry fruit were at the start, following was a full meat fat taste of game hen or wild bird on a grill or spit that made the tastebuds simply water- pheasant anyone? Finishing with filberts and dried up muddy earth, but with a refreshing savory herb that was decidedly Bay leaf. Its a long and austere wine with perhaps not as much plush as the 1999 but equally layered, driven, and still of more potence than other Eyrie I have had. Its a wine that drinks like an aristocratic meal of old, with all its courses and complexity of decor and warmth. Pull out the fine china and silver, the '03 Eyrie is at the table. $$

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Fall Favorites

I love October. Why? Because the leaves are starting to fall, the air is crisp, there are fish migrating up the rivers, and many wines are released as well. I also always enjoy when the woods are full of fall scents. All in all autumn has to be my favorite time of year.

Recently I took a Coho salmon I had caught over to a friend’s to grill on their traeger. The fish, seasoned only with a bit of truffle salt and then sea salt, brought questions to what to have with it - definitely Pinot Noir. When asked what I thought I said something like the Medici East Block Pinot Noir (see prior postings) – thinking of truffles, forest floor decay, earthy; definitely in the style of where the fish was caught out of the rivers of the northwest surrounded by wet pines, decaying wood, mud, and low lying mists. The choice made was simply a brilliant marriage of flavors for our meal.

Carlo & Julian Young Vines Cuvee 2006 Pinot Noir – I was given the first small pour to meet approval with the fish… Oh yes this is it... Cherries in the nose but that quickly fell to decaying forest floor scents. Further scents reminded me of being a kid kicking open wet, moss covered decaying stumps or logs on stomps through northwest woods. The taste was of wet cool fruit, cherries and some wild berries. While the fruit was a great pairing with our fish and other courses, the other flavors may have been even better accompaniment. The fruit faded a bit, while still remaining present, with earthy, mossy, wild mushroom, wet forest floor flavors impressing - mirroring the nose in those tastes. Good fish to me is like good wine; there are more than just the typical tastes associated with it too. The Coho, grilled fresh, even had me sniffing the skin. No fishy smells, it had scents of the traeger wood grill and was like a roasted herb chicken with skin on. The flavor of the fish with the truffle salt was just so good paired with the cherries, wild fruit, and decaying mossy mushroom covered logs of northwest pine forests. My host even stated that this wine while good, was simply excellent when put with the Coho. A wonderful wine and dinner that typified the outdoors of the northwest in autumn. If you can try your own Oregon salmon and Pinot Noir. You might not do much better than the Carlo & Julian Young Vines Cuvee. $$

This all serves to point out that besides the right wine, the right food paired with can have a lasting impact. It certainly did on me. Pinot and Coho, a northwest bounty.

Friday, September 26, 2008

Bachus Athena & Apollo

Busted! Been a month since I posted! Okay so I was off having a late summer full of wine, food, & fun. And while Bachus may be the God of wine and good times, I ran into a few others of the Pantheon while enjoying my time and wines...

Boedecker Cellars Athena 2004 Pinot Noir – This beautiful Pinot Noir aptly carries the name of the Greek goddess of Beauty. It also carries the name of the song of the same title by the Who - which was mentioned more than once during this tasting while enjoying this somehow contradictory, but aligned, powerful yet sultry and delicate Pinot Noir. While actually named after one of the vintners it is truly a lovely Pinot Noir, which fixed me with its allure. It had colors of deep ruby red with rose highlights and the moment I put the glass near to my nose I smelled bacon fat, smoke, and earth. As I waited scents of dark cherries and geranium arose more to the front. The initial scents surprised me and definitely intensified my interest. The palate may have surprised me even more with a full but delicate mouth-feel that was so round and well put together. Freshly picked dark cherries were the most pronounced flavor to me but with a nice sultry alcohol lift and tasty smoked earth notes towards the finish. It had very nice acidity as well that lasted long and pressed far back on the tongue. The balance of this wine was the topic of some conversation as well as it was so good and straight – like walking a long tight rope but with more thrill than fear. I was very fortunate to have this wine, as it is in very scarce suplly! I learned a lesson here, when I held off on placing an order for just a few days finding that none remained through that initial outlet. It again had me recall the song by the Who - Athena, I had no idea how much I’d need her. My life has been so settled and she’s the reason…
If you find this wine, this is a rare case where I will recommend buy on locating. You wont find it at a tasting likely; it’s a stunner and at a really reasonable cost for what it is. $$

Ermita VeraCruz 2005 Verdejo - Have you not had the Verdejo (Vayr-Day-Hoe) varietal of Spain before? Well I think you are missing out! This version of this white wine is a last gasp of summer to complement the few sunny warm days we've still managed. The description couldn't have come to me more easily with the Vera Cruz. It was citrusy lemon and filtered sun streaks through groves of trees touched by the fingers of Apollo. Full of lemon and some other citrus in the nose I couldn't quite get a hold of, but with a dry warm whiff that was almost dusty grassy scented. Bright yellow lemons swirled with other citrus, and lemon grass ran around the mouth which then met with a pith taste... there running back until finish an aftertaste of white minerally rocks such as limestone or white gravel. It was bold, racy, and bright and I could easily visualize the hand of Apollo picking only the very best fruit for his own. Best of all its an affordable end to summer. And heck its so good I might open in the middle of winter just to get some summer glow and chase away any Oregon cabin fever. Run through the groves ye children of Apollo. $

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

City of Rosés

Well I'm behind in posts. I've attended some brilliant tastings and notes run amuck. Because of this I will probably have another posting this week alone. I am trying to get the wine word out. :)

Portland is well known as the City of Roses… however, after escaping some very hot weather recently; and having used the occasion to have a few different rosé, I think I live in the city of Rosés. Portland is already a wine friendly town but I am impressed with number of different rosé I have seen. I’m not even close to trying one quarter of what I have seen. I have had a few new ones since my last rosé posting though, as well as a couple repeats so I wanted to send out an update.

Vallescuro Tempranillo Rosé 2007 – This is a solid built, muscular, rosé. If you haven’t had rosé, or not many, this wine definitely has some push to it for the type of wine. Very dark red raspberry color in the bottle and glass but still completely translucent as rosé are. The nose contained a lot of strawberry and raspberry fruit, with a touch of some sort of spice. On the palate, its strawberry mouth fill I thought would be all I might find upon first taste. As it progressed however, some spice tingled the front of my tongue before moving back to the middle with a very chalky and moderate length finish. It reminded me of the swirling dust off erasers cleaning chalkboard. The mouth-feel is fat and round for a rosé. I had with some Mexican food and it matched well. To be a bit bold, this wine has cajones, which one of my tasting friends is all for. Take a swirl, sip, and hold on to this forward and fresh rosé. $

Cameron Vino Pinko 2007 Rosé – Ah yes the rosé with Che Guevara on the label that made a local conservative radio host angry. Cameron has been releasing this slightly controversial labeled rosé for a few years now; however, this is my first time tasting it. A blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Munier, it is airy colored in the bottle and glass… the lightest shade of pink imaginable like an ocean haze enhanced sunset. The nose is light and bright dried strawberries and acidity – dry strawberry cologne in a glass. It is very light and a bit racy. Once in the mouth, it was freeze dried strawberry flavors at onset that swirled to a citric acid flavor and feel. There is long acidity to this wine and it finished far back on the palate with a dry slate dust taste that still had remnants of fruit blended in. I would love to try this with Cuban food! The tastes change seeminly at will and from taster to taster, another maddeningly great wine from John Paul. $

J.M. Raffault Cabernet Franc Chinon Rosé 2007 – If you haven’t had French rosé I think you really should. That said there are crazy numbers of French rosé in different styles with different grapes. However, if you have a grape or vintner you like from France see if they produce a rosé. That is how and why I picked up the Raffault rosé. If you see my prior posts on the Raffault Chinon I truly dove into the glass. When I saw his rosé, I simply knew I wanted to try it.
This rosé is a steelhead or trout flesh pink color in the glass and bottle, but bright and clear. As with Cab Franc varietals, there can be salad or vegetal quality in the nose and this rosé did not disappoint. The aroma certainly had ripe strawberries, but they blended with a green jalapeno pepper scent. I very much enjoyed the blend of fruit and spicy green in the aroma. Tastes were very dry fruit at front, but also I found this is a bracing, acid filled rosé. It’s squeaky clean and its white pepper and mineral driven finish I impressed me as a long but delicate palate cleanser. Paired with grilled leaks and squash it was simply a wonderful sipper and an instant reason to repeat with a number of other French rosé. $

Grochau Cellars (G.C.) Pink – The people’s rosé. Did you read my prior notes on G.C Pink? I called it the friendliest rosé I’ve had. This is a Pinot Noir rosé in its first year of release. I had the fortune of having again recently and it still is very friendly and very popular with tasters. There have been some changes to the wine since last tasted in June. The nose was a bit dirtier with a light air of wind through straw and farmhouse in a hot summer. The strawberries are also still there but the wine smells a bit darker and more structured. In the mouth, I was greeted with big plump strawberry and cherry as expected and plenty of a glycerin mouth-feel but with a bit of a toast tip or french toast air maybe I confused with more in the nose than on the palate. The finish had some decent tannin feel with a nice bright acidity that washed the back of the mouth. One other taster mentioned blindfolded I wouldn’t have known this was G.C. Pink nor maybe even rosé. An interesting thought that she may be right about; it would be fun to try that with what I still consider the people’s rosé, with something for everyone. $

Personally I will drink a rosé any time of year but as this weekend some do consider the official end of summer it’s the perfect time to take that extra day and wander to your local wine shop in the city of Rosés.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Hard to Port

I’ve been meaning to post about Port for some time - another wine that I find interesting, that is sometimes misunderstood. Port is wine fortified with brandy. When I say Port, most people metaphorically turn away and say no thank you I am not into sweet wine. While often as a desert or aperitif, not all Port is necessarily sweet, nor is it what some expect… There are white port (yes from white grapes), tawny port, ruby port, etc. Tastes can range from dry white minerals to peaches, brandied cherries, figs, cola, coffee, even nuts. While the majority I have tasted can be sweet or semi-sweet, I have had dry Port. Both style of Port I mention here are somewhat sweet Tawny Port. Each are good to sit sip and relax with, as a fine brandy or fortified wine should be in my opinion. When you find the style of Port you like, then find the maker you really enjoy, it may be enough to having you turn hard, to Port.

Keopke Fine Tawny Port – For an inexpensive Port this is a nice wine. Burnt red/brown colored in the glass with a nice dark mahogany hue... It has strong brandy style scent but with nice brandied cherries almost as an afterthought. On the palate, it is a lightly sweet Port of red brandied cherries of Christmas and cola flavors, with a crème brûlée and a nutty finish. Its cola burst in the middle reminded me while a child figuring out the way to coerce the soda machine at my father’s workplace to pouring straight syrup into the cup without the soda water. Thick dark cola, with torched sugar style flavor. Not the longest Port it had a bit of a definite brandy and desert style impression. I recently had with family at summer holiday having with dark chocolate and almonds and after with other friends who all enjoyed. Would be good with standard faire for with Port such as Stilton cheese as well as this is a fairly standard Port. It’s a good introduction to semi-sweet to sweet Port and is a nice pick up for the price. $

Smith Woodhouse Colheita Port 1986 – This Colheita is a rare Tawny Port produced from a single harvest. While my experience with Port is limited to about a dozen I found this to be very pretty with elegant aromas of caramel, brandy, seasoned wood, and nuts. It was very light colored in the glass too, hazelnut shell colored with slight ruddy tint. Flavors and mouth-feel were both gentle but full, with butterscotch, almond extract, and light bing-cherry juice flavors, which then finished with grey smoke and slightly over roasted coffee tastes. Long and very interesting the finish evaporated from the mouth and tongue easily leaving a light feel and toasted touch. This is a much more serious Port in my opinion with age, elegance, and depth. Due to that, it is a bit more exclusive in price. Not a desert Port in my mind I think of it to have as an aperitif or simply as a treat at any time. Enjoy on its own or with some tamari almonds, maybe some Tilamook extra sharp white cheddar for a local flair, and all hands, hard to Port. $$$

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

The Greatest Show on Earth

Barnum and Bailey, if they are wine lovers, I believe would applaud the tasting I recently attended. A circus menagerie of grapes it lit up the big top, had its clowns, its acrobats, its tigers, and even the elephant in the room. It was a bevy of wine from around the world even moments like Cirque de Soleil. To be sure more wine was tasted than will be listed here, but like any circus some things caught my attention more than others. So ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls of all ages… welcome to the show!

St. Urbans-hof Urban Mosel Riesling 2006 – hello my little leibshen. With a nice kiss of pale gold color this wine brought kerosene to the nose, white gas, plus citrus aromas. A pleasant offering that woke up the palate and showed what a German Riesling can be like. I love the scent of a Mosel Riesling. In the mouth it had a glycerin smooth feel. Short bodied, lightly off-dry, and fun and pretty; a cabaret of flavors - the tastes juggled grapefruit, candied lemon rind, green clover flower, and golden apple that finish light while running over white rock and slate. It was an enjoyable attention grabber to start things off under the lights of the circus tent. $

Bunnell Northridge Vineyard Mouvedre 2006 (Washington)
– This was a showy bugger; like a man on the flying silks, or even the daredevils of the motor cross sphere. Dark sanguine crimson red in the glass. Many who were entranced by it were impressed by such a ostentatious young version of this varietal. Black pepper, currants, wet dirty sheep’s wool, and other sweaty/gamey funk in the nose; it nearly recoiled some but the fruit scents won out as the more pungent aromas blew off. Taste buds were given a show with smooth plum, black raspberry, licorice, and fireside smoke that crossed the palate. On its finish it careened, plummeting and stopping short of disaster to salted iodized meat with a leave of wet clay – leaving its audience gasping, mouths agape. $$

Maisonneuve Cahors Les Laquets 2002 – This wine was the rowdy entertainer of the evening if not in strength or subtlety in shear energy and interest. Opened at the tasting as a friendly extra, it was a sweat laden hairy legged French woman singing James Brown – I feel good hah! Dirty and funky at the same time... The nose was smelly with dirty earth, barnyard, dried fruit, astringency, and band aid scents. On the palate it was full bodied, wide oval, dry, but long and very smooth. Flavors of dried dark or black fruit transitioned to a tarter berry taste then moved to iodine and marrow with what I could only evoke as dry red desert clay soil finish. Truly a treat that had many tasters singing along – I feel good… now that I got you. Hunh! $$

Comte Armand Volnay 2005 – This was the growling tiger in the room. A sleek, strong and dynamic, but somehow contrasting delicate and perfumed sensed Burgundy that I have had once before and loved both times. Soft aromas of dark fruit and flowers – maybe jasmine or rose petals expanded from initial brambly darker scents that left thoughts of deep forest thickets that block out sunlight. Flavors were of raspberry and loganberry at first. Then the wine opened further and an unidentifiable herbal taste was present. It finished with an iron earthen flavor one taster felt was “bloody” to the point of his distaste; either from the order of tastes before or from changes in the bottle since last tasted. Certainly more power to the finish than the last time I had this wine. Engrossed I stared into the dark stained glass at the eyes of this feline but powerful Burgundy. $$$

Fougeray de Beauclair Bonnes Mares 2001 Grand Cru – The grand finale and a special share from a friend. Thank you, you know who you are. This Burgundy started right off with both flash and substance - cherries jubilee in the nose but with a background of floral tones. Flavors ranged from tart black cherry and woody spices in the start and mid-palate; to forest floor funk with decaying ferns and moss, to iodine, iron, and long subtle minerals at the finish. It was the big wine in the room. The elephant that none will forget as it showed its power and also grace that perhaps would not be expected. It drew me in and impressed me with its flavors and layers; it could even age more easily, if one wanted. Simply astounding, simply brilliant, simply a standing ovation finish under the big top. $$$$